Where the world dawns anew

This past Monday was Labor Day, affording a three day weekend, so we took the opportunity to visit yet another uncharted area on our list, the East Cape. With its claim of being the first place in the world to see the sun rise (due to the international date line), it is the most easterly area of New Zealand, located in the Bay of Plenty, situated between the major cities of Whakatane and Gisborne. A total of 330 kilometers long, the road is winding, following the coastline closely on the western side and traversing the Raukumara range and farmland on the eastern side. It was worth making the trip over two days so that we could enjoy the views. It is an area rich in Maori history, dotted with red-roofed Marae (traditional Maori meeting houses) in each bay and township, making carving exploration an easy task. With minimal population and a laid-back attitude to living, little was open or available in the way of cafes or groceries, making us more then thankful we had taken provisions on the trip.

After spending Friday night in Whakatane, we left populous civilization on the way around the western side of the East Cape. The sun came out in pockets throughout the day as we stopped to purchase handmade tiles from an old converted Cheddar Valley Cheese Factory, take pictures of the major landmarks and enjoy some homemade macadamia ice cream from Pacific Coast Macadamias. We made it to our Saturday night accommodation, Hicks Bay Motel Lodge, at the tip of the East Cape in time to decline a dinner reservation at their establishment. We instead made a 40 kilometer round-trip drive out along gravel road to the East Cape lighthouse. The most easterly lighthouse in New Zealand, it was originally built on a small island just off the coast, but due to rough conditions it was moved to its present location in 1922. Realizing the lateness of the hour, we hiked up the 900 steps across private farmland to reach the structure at lightening speed, then drove the 20 kilometers back to Te Aroroa just in time to order our fish and chips before the only takeaway shop for miles closed at 6:30pm. Enjoying our bounty on the deck of our cabin at the motel, we listened to the waves crash against the shore below until the chilly wind drove us inside.

Leaving our curtains open, we attempted to witness the sun crest the horizon for a new day, but the foliage unfortunately obscured our view. Having already arisen, we took the opportunity to get on the road early. After making a quick stop to the East Cape Manuka Visitors Centre to purchase some much coveted honey products, we detoured back in Te Aroroa to take a picture of the largest pohutukawa tree in the world, Te Waha O Rerekohu. Then we were off down the eastern side of the cape. Traversing the lavish farmland, towns were fewer and farther between then on the western side. With much of the old trading company buildings now going to ruin, you could see how this area was once a thriving part of New Zealand. Jason even managed to find and old bank building he thought would make a fine B&B or backpackers, with a boutique knitting store on the ground level for me. As the day progressed, the weather turned sour, although we still managed to brave the wind to walk out the longest wharf in New Zealand (660 meters) in Tolaga Bay and then take a quick 1.5 hour tramp across farmland to see Cook’s Cove, were Captain Cook landed to get supplies. Spurts of torrential rain followed us as we drove the remainder of the way into Gisborne in time to take a warming spa bath at our last night’s accommodation, Torrington B&B. Once an old doctor’s surgery for about 50 years, many in the community still remember coming to the house to receive medical attention. We enjoyed a lovely dinner on the wharf in Gisborne, entertained by all the intoxicated participants of the day’s Gisborne Food and Wine Festival who were being dropped off at the wharf for the after parties and seemed unaffected by the chilly wind as they walked along in their mini skirts and t-shirts.

Sunday we arose to beautiful sunny weather just in time to make the five hour drive back to Hamilton, having succeeded in our discovery of another part of New Zealand.