Green with Envy

Leaving Christchurch, our trip turned west toward the renowned West Coast region of the South Island. A recommended destination point by every New Zealander I consulted, it is composed of rugged, rocky coast juxtaposed against sweeping hills that lead to high alpine peaks. It is nothing but magnificent. Getting there required traversing Arthur's Pass along the original route used by Maoris to reach the Westland. Substantially updated since it's first use, inclusive of well-paved roads, it provides a beautiful drive through Arthur's Pass National Park with it's plentiful pine trees and bountiful waterfalls. We stopped for a short bite to eat and a tour of DOC visitor's center at the top. It details the history of Europeans first attempts to cross this rugged path by carriage up through the modern day construction of the newly finished Otira Viaduct which substantially shortens the length and time of passage, although still at a 16% grade.

Hokitika was our ultimate destination. Located approximately half way down the West Coast Region's coastline, it is the major center for the working of greenstone (New Zealand jade). There are a multitude of stores where one can peruse the workings of local artists, watch the actual creative process in action, and even take a turn at creating your own greenstone jewelry. Despite this major tourist attraction, Leslie and I found several other things to explore in the area. We toured the Eco Centre, an aquarium style set-up, showcasing a variety of native fish, turtles, crayfish, kiwis, and the star attraction, enormous long-finned eels. Much to my delight, Leslie choosing to bypass the spectacle, standing as far away from the tank as possible, we arrived in time to watch them feed the eels. It's a gentle reminder that one should never swim in eel-infested waters. We also drove out to Hokitika Gorge where I discovered that Leslie has a mild fear of swinging bridges. (A slight problem given that almost all trail bridges in New Zealand and swinging.) It was worth overcoming the hurdle, as we were greeted by the beautiful blue-green waters of the Hokitika River lined by the gorge walls covered in vibrantly green foliage, and more waterfalls. Hokitika was also where Leslie took her turn at left-sided driving, contributing her 2 km to our 2000 km trip. On the second night, we fumbled through pitch blackness (having forgotten to borrow a flashlight from reception) to visit the glow-worm dell. Tiny invertebrates, they shine like twinkling lights in the dark, suspended by self-made sticky threads. Unfortunately, the weather did not allow a beach visit while in Hokitika, our closest observation from the veranda of our log cabin accommodation. That would have to come during the next leg of our trip...